Club kids verse the cool kids, the much anticipated follow
up to their flawless début was indicative of their English youth, emulating the
epitome of the rave and the girl gangs of cool, a projection of punk princesses
equip with latex legwear and a hard-core attitude. Embracing the essence of the
club kid era and the comradeship of the underground dance scene, the Marc by
Marc SS15 show projected a scene of longing, transporting its audience to a new
world system of polka dot motifs and Björk-esque topknots.
CADENCE (&) CLEMENTINE
14 September 2014
27 May 2014
AREN'T WE TIRED YET?
- Annika Hein
2010 marked the launch of Industrie Magazine and for their
debut issue they strategically placed Ms. Anna Wintour on the cover with an
understated, inconspicuous image credit. She was typically nonchalant,
predictably and effortlessly vague and fooled no one as she distinctly
represented herself! There was no character portrayal, no excess wardrobe, no
reality escaping fantasy- the cover was a celebration of Anna as Anna. A pretty
bold move for an unestablished magazine, especially given the industry pulling
power of their cover star and her direct association with what was potentially a
competing publication. They were proving a point, one that further cemented
their dedication to the culture of
fashion, shifting the focus away from trends, instead providing an insight into
the personalities and moments that influence and shape our industry.
And at first, this defection from the frustratingly
untouchable high fashion world was a welcomed distraction. The glorification of
street style was a refreshing shift in focus, compelling us to delve into the
intrigue associated with, not only who and what people were wearing, but how
they were wearing it, where they were going and who they were with. The
individual moved into the forefront, it was all about the attitude; personal
touches by way of OTT nail art, eccentric phone covers, takeaway coffee cups
and the latest magazines rolled up under the arm were equally important, acting
as aesthetical props, strategically placed in focus providing intimate insight
and extra understanding. The dutiful photographer boyfriend was always in tow
and the art of the, “pose,” was mastered, (straight legs, one foot crossed in
front of the other, shoulder slightly up, chin down, clutch placed perfectly at
your side!). Next to follow, without missing a stylised beat were the bloggers,
who were quick to realise the trick to getting photographed and pulling
editorial focus, was to dress as ridiculously over the top as possible!
The appeal has slowly begun to loose its edge; it’s becoming
dry and predictable, accelerating to the extent of no longer having anything to
do with fashion at all. It has been converted into a deafening PR stunt, a
cutthroat competition of the ugly and the unimaginative. The concept of street
style has developed into an exhausting masquerade, comprised of personal
attacks on the creative foundations of the fashion industry. Aren’t we tired
yet?
It’s time to shift the focus, send our appreciation and
admirations back to the influencers, the innovators and the shape shifters of
the industry. The true individuals who genuinely and actively contribute to the
development of fashion, those whose opinions and legacies are so greatly
engrained in the framework of the industry, that something as insignificant as a
captured moment on the street could never hope to verify and cement the
important of their place or validate the strength of their voice. The
underlying core of street style was to make fashion seem somewhat accessible
and attainable, but what if it’s appeal all along was that it wasn’t?
To be
continued…
19 May 2014
THE BEAUTY OF BACKSTAGE
- Annika Hein
An elusive, chaotic world of statuesque, otherworldly figures, wondrous designs, obsessive details and meticulous dedication; behind the closed doors of the fashion industry offers a powerful, untameable source of inspiration, imagination and severe creativity. An unstoppable world of intrigue, this behind the scenes ordeal offers untainted moments of pure collaboration, creative chaos, beautiful integration and, until recently, unrevealed secrets of genius proportion.
Our
thirst for knowledge and tenacious ability to source the information we so
desperately crave has been met with the ever accommodating rise of technology.
With these constant developments has come the integration and need for all
areas of creativity to become transparent. No longer do people simply want to
know the brand, they want to connect and relate to every aspect of their story,
the inspiration, the atmosphere and most importantly the message. This need for
knowledge has subconsciously developed a new element of inspiration. No longer
does simply the show suffice as an adequate insight into a collection or
campaign, we want the aesthetic, the true moments and the un-choreographed
creativity. Behind the scenes has now become such an integral part of the
complete story that our fascination is fast becoming an expectation. We are
filled with such a desire to be part of those chaotic, sporadic moments that
the idea in itself is now a completely separate entity. The final moment of
magic is now just as important as the creative journey those involved took to
arrive. The beauty of backstage offers us rare and pure moments of inspiration
and imagination captured amongst the complete chaos that is second nature to
the creativity and innovation of fashion.
Tweet
it, pin in, upload it and share it. Check-in, hash tag, follow, like or
comment, fashion has a whole new vocabulary, developed and championed by the
rise of technology and the words that spring to mind are integrated
collaboration. We crave the element of sharing and our thirst for knowledge and
inspiration is insatiable. No longer is the front row satisfying enough, people
crave the back stage, (all access), pass and it’s not simple about stroking egos!
They crave to be in the centre, the creative core, where the ideas literally
transform into reality. Those coveted closed-doors hold inside them an area of
untouched, raw innovation. Spontaneity resurfaces and conceptualises into
moments of un-planned greatness and wonderment. People don’t want to be subjected
to the dress, the shoot or the collection alone, they’re desperate to
experience the journey, the inspiration and the creative evolution. Fashion’s
devotees, or universal followers, are on the hunt for ways to share and connect
with their long-standing fixation and they are all too aware of the
possibilities and inspiration the elusive concept of backstage or behind the
scenes offers. No longer is it feasible
to simply live stream fashion shows or stare lustfully at the epic editorials
splayed beautifully across the glossy pages, transparency now holds the power.
People want to see the hair being teased, the hems being pinned, the mood board
aesthetic, the madness, the anarchy and the test shots. The wonder, the fantasy
and the beautiful creativity of the fashion industry is no longer restricted to
the finished products alone, the innovative developments and artistic
experimentations are now captured and shared so we can revel in the excitement
and journey from idea to inception.
The
fashion industry prides itself on its delivery, there’s a talent and a
reputation for creating moments of pure, boundary pushing innovation, perfectly,
put-together visions of rehearsed and choreographed inception but here lies the
problem. What is showcased, observed and absorbed on the receiving end has been
so meticulously constructed, put together and created, with such strict and
disciplined skill, there is literally no room for mistakes. A creator’s dream
of perfection and isolation is in relation, an audience’s nightmare. There is a want to experience the evolution
of a creative vision however, this is equally met with the counter act of
wanting to know and revel in the development of that very idea. People are now
seeking and demanding transparency from fashion, they don’t merely want a
flawless collection, they want to see the passion, the inspiration and the
emotion behind the dedication and sheer devotion. Part of their experience and
appreciation now lies in their ability to involve themselves in all elements of
the creative process. There is a demand for information and a desire to share,
that is thrusting the falls, the failures and the heartbreak into the
spotlight, finding it’s place right next to the glory, the success and the
applause. Easily disguised as voyeurism or intrusive curiosity this new layer
of inspiration provides an unmarked insight into the creative minds of the
individuals we’re so fascinated and mystified by. It’s the street style of
fashion, replicated into the editorial, high fashion world, finding inspiration
and unhindered creativity in the norm.
Today’s
fascination with sharing, uploading, pinning and following has resulted, by
default, in a whole new approach to inspiration. In response to our demand to
know and be in the know, the behind the scenes element of the fashion industry
has had to adapt, becoming instantly and readily available. We’re inspired by the
unfinished moments and sporadic glimpses into this seemingly unattainable
world, so much so that is it now a required expectation. Our obsession, (for
lack of a better word), has evolved to a whole new level. It’s the thought
processes, the abandoned ideas and the everyday details that are now inspiring
us, so much so that in some instances what you had for breakfast is as equally
important as the fabric composition of your opening look! The concept of
inspiration is an intangible, constantly evolving idea and the exclusive aura
of backstage provides a realm, both intriguing and enticing, appealing to and fulfilling
a magnitude of individual expectations. In today’s digital masterpiece, where
information and inspiration is hand delivered on a silver, touch screen,
platter, it seems the more the better and hold the rehearsal! Behind the scenes
is fast becoming a creative hive bursting with unreleased moments, untainted
individuality and unrestricted experimentation and it seems everyone else wants
in on these exclusive, ‘un,’ moments!
Creative
free-fall, sever dedication, alluring exclusivity and individual talent of
unimaginable heights; behind the scenes of the fashion world offers a rare
glimpse into the un-filtered minds of the industry’s elite. The awe and
enchantment surrounding fashion, intertwined with the limitless experimentation
and sheer passion it unquestionably attracts, is no longer restricted to the
perfectly executed masterpieces.
A
powerful source of unrelenting dedication, the beauty of backstage lies in its
unique ability to capture pure moments of un-choreographed emotion, untainted
displays of individuality and seemingly flawless liberations of chaos.
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