14 September 2014

t h e // CLUB // k i d s

Club kids verse the cool kids, the much anticipated follow up to their flawless début was indicative of their English youth, emulating the epitome of the rave and the girl gangs of cool, a projection of punk princesses equip with latex legwear and a hard-core attitude. Embracing the essence of the club kid era and the comradeship of the underground dance scene, the Marc by Marc SS15 show projected a scene of longing, transporting its audience to a new world system of polka dot motifs and Björk-esque topknots.

Images: Style.com

27 May 2014

- Annika Hein

2010 marked the launch of Industrie Magazine and for their debut issue they strategically placed Ms. Anna Wintour on the cover with an understated, inconspicuous image credit. She was typically nonchalant, predictably and effortlessly vague and fooled no one as she distinctly represented herself! There was no character portrayal, no excess wardrobe, no reality escaping fantasy- the cover was a celebration of Anna as Anna. A pretty bold move for an unestablished magazine, especially given the industry pulling power of their cover star and her direct association with what was potentially a competing publication. They were proving a point, one that further cemented their dedication to the culture of fashion, shifting the focus away from trends, instead providing an insight into the personalities and moments that influence and shape our industry.

And at first, this defection from the frustratingly untouchable high fashion world was a welcomed distraction. The glorification of street style was a refreshing shift in focus, compelling us to delve into the intrigue associated with, not only who and what people were wearing, but how they were wearing it, where they were going and who they were with. The individual moved into the forefront, it was all about the attitude; personal touches by way of OTT nail art, eccentric phone covers, takeaway coffee cups and the latest magazines rolled up under the arm were equally important, acting as aesthetical props, strategically placed in focus providing intimate insight and extra understanding. The dutiful photographer boyfriend was always in tow and the art of the, “pose,” was mastered, (straight legs, one foot crossed in front of the other, shoulder slightly up, chin down, clutch placed perfectly at your side!). Next to follow, without missing a stylised beat were the bloggers, who were quick to realise the trick to getting photographed and pulling editorial focus, was to dress as ridiculously over the top as possible!

The appeal has slowly begun to loose its edge; it’s becoming dry and predictable, accelerating to the extent of no longer having anything to do with fashion at all. It has been converted into a deafening PR stunt, a cutthroat competition of the ugly and the unimaginative. The concept of street style has developed into an exhausting masquerade, comprised of personal attacks on the creative foundations of the fashion industry. Aren’t we tired yet?
It’s time to shift the focus, send our appreciation and admirations back to the influencers, the innovators and the shape shifters of the industry. The true individuals who genuinely and actively contribute to the development of fashion, those whose opinions and legacies are so greatly engrained in the framework of the industry, that something as insignificant as a captured moment on the street could never hope to verify and cement the important of their place or validate the strength of their voice. The underlying core of street style was to make fashion seem somewhat accessible and attainable, but what if it’s appeal all along was that it wasn’t? 
To be continued…

19 May 2014

- Annika Hein

An elusive, chaotic world of statuesque, otherworldly figures, wondrous designs, obsessive details and meticulous dedication; behind the closed doors of the fashion industry offers a powerful, untameable source of inspiration, imagination and severe creativity. An unstoppable world of intrigue, this behind the scenes ordeal offers untainted moments of pure collaboration, creative chaos, beautiful integration and, until recently, unrevealed secrets of genius proportion.

Our thirst for knowledge and tenacious ability to source the information we so desperately crave has been met with the ever accommodating rise of technology. With these constant developments has come the integration and need for all areas of creativity to become transparent. No longer do people simply want to know the brand, they want to connect and relate to every aspect of their story, the inspiration, the atmosphere and most importantly the message. This need for knowledge has subconsciously developed a new element of inspiration. No longer does simply the show suffice as an adequate insight into a collection or campaign, we want the aesthetic, the true moments and the un-choreographed creativity. Behind the scenes has now become such an integral part of the complete story that our fascination is fast becoming an expectation. We are filled with such a desire to be part of those chaotic, sporadic moments that the idea in itself is now a completely separate entity. The final moment of magic is now just as important as the creative journey those involved took to arrive. The beauty of backstage offers us rare and pure moments of inspiration and imagination captured amongst the complete chaos that is second nature to the creativity and innovation of fashion.

Tweet it, pin in, upload it and share it. Check-in, hash tag, follow, like or comment, fashion has a whole new vocabulary, developed and championed by the rise of technology and the words that spring to mind are integrated collaboration. We crave the element of sharing and our thirst for knowledge and inspiration is insatiable. No longer is the front row satisfying enough, people crave the back stage, (all access), pass and it’s not simple about stroking egos! They crave to be in the centre, the creative core, where the ideas literally transform into reality. Those coveted closed-doors hold inside them an area of untouched, raw innovation. Spontaneity resurfaces and conceptualises into moments of un-planned greatness and wonderment. People don’t want to be subjected to the dress, the shoot or the collection alone, they’re desperate to experience the journey, the inspiration and the creative evolution. Fashion’s devotees, or universal followers, are on the hunt for ways to share and connect with their long-standing fixation and they are all too aware of the possibilities and inspiration the elusive concept of backstage or behind the scenes offers.  No longer is it feasible to simply live stream fashion shows or stare lustfully at the epic editorials splayed beautifully across the glossy pages, transparency now holds the power. People want to see the hair being teased, the hems being pinned, the mood board aesthetic, the madness, the anarchy and the test shots. The wonder, the fantasy and the beautiful creativity of the fashion industry is no longer restricted to the finished products alone, the innovative developments and artistic experimentations are now captured and shared so we can revel in the excitement and journey from idea to inception.

The fashion industry prides itself on its delivery, there’s a talent and a reputation for creating moments of pure, boundary pushing innovation, perfectly, put-together visions of rehearsed and choreographed inception but here lies the problem. What is showcased, observed and absorbed on the receiving end has been so meticulously constructed, put together and created, with such strict and disciplined skill, there is literally no room for mistakes. A creator’s dream of perfection and isolation is in relation, an audience’s nightmare.  There is a want to experience the evolution of a creative vision however, this is equally met with the counter act of wanting to know and revel in the development of that very idea. People are now seeking and demanding transparency from fashion, they don’t merely want a flawless collection, they want to see the passion, the inspiration and the emotion behind the dedication and sheer devotion. Part of their experience and appreciation now lies in their ability to involve themselves in all elements of the creative process. There is a demand for information and a desire to share, that is thrusting the falls, the failures and the heartbreak into the spotlight, finding it’s place right next to the glory, the success and the applause. Easily disguised as voyeurism or intrusive curiosity this new layer of inspiration provides an unmarked insight into the creative minds of the individuals we’re so fascinated and mystified by. It’s the street style of fashion, replicated into the editorial, high fashion world, finding inspiration and unhindered creativity in the norm.

Today’s fascination with sharing, uploading, pinning and following has resulted, by default, in a whole new approach to inspiration. In response to our demand to know and be in the know, the behind the scenes element of the fashion industry has had to adapt, becoming instantly and readily available. We’re inspired by the unfinished moments and sporadic glimpses into this seemingly unattainable world, so much so that is it now a required expectation. Our obsession, (for lack of a better word), has evolved to a whole new level. It’s the thought processes, the abandoned ideas and the everyday details that are now inspiring us, so much so that in some instances what you had for breakfast is as equally important as the fabric composition of your opening look! The concept of inspiration is an intangible, constantly evolving idea and the exclusive aura of backstage provides a realm, both intriguing and enticing, appealing to and fulfilling a magnitude of individual expectations. In today’s digital masterpiece, where information and inspiration is hand delivered on a silver, touch screen, platter, it seems the more the better and hold the rehearsal! Behind the scenes is fast becoming a creative hive bursting with unreleased moments, untainted individuality and unrestricted experimentation and it seems everyone else wants in on these exclusive, ‘un,’ moments!

Creative free-fall, sever dedication, alluring exclusivity and individual talent of unimaginable heights; behind the scenes of the fashion world offers a rare glimpse into the un-filtered minds of the industry’s elite. The awe and enchantment surrounding fashion, intertwined with the limitless experimentation and sheer passion it unquestionably attracts, is no longer restricted to the perfectly executed masterpieces. 
A powerful source of unrelenting dedication, the beauty of backstage lies in its unique ability to capture pure moments of un-choreographed emotion, untainted displays of individuality and seemingly flawless liberations of chaos.

Behind the scenes moments from Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Alexander McQueen and Chanel.